Do’s and Don’ts of Cruising Jamaica

Port Morant Windmill

Before we sail to a new country there is a tremendous amount of research involved: cruising guides, charts, travel guides for land travel, language, money, etc. One invaluable resource is blogs written by other cruisers, especially if they were written recently (within a few years or since a major storm). We couldn’t find many blogs discussing Jamaica in detail as it isn’t a destination for most sailors so in case future cruisers are googling “jamaica sailing blog”, here are some tips from spending two months in the country.

Delivered by "Bananaman", Port Antonio

DON’T fear for your safety. Jamaica may have been an unsafe place for cruisers decades ago but this is no longer true. Just be a smart traveller, just as you would in any other country.

DON’T just stop at Port Antonio on your way north or south. This is typically the only stop most cruisers make in Jamaica and although it is beautiful and has a nice marina, it really doesn’t do the island justice. If you are just passing through consider also stopping at Port Morant to the south east. Not only is it a port of entry/exit, it is extremely well protected, there is a navy outpost nearby with free drinking water and a better supermarket than Port Antonio a short taxi ride away. Jamaicans here are extremely friendly and there is a beautiful walk through the neighbouring villages with incredible gardens. Not to mention that nobody tried to hustle us - this may have been our favourite place in Jamaica!

South Coast

DO bring spare parts with you. You will probably only be one of a handful of sailboats in the country and there are no marine stores with sailboat parts. There are lots of sport fishing boats around Kingston and we heard rumours of one marine store in Kingston targeting these boats. If you need something important you’ll have to find a way to get it from somewhere else.

DO spend a few days in Kingston. The “Town” is the beating heart of Jamaica and while it’s not a typical tourist stop there are still some cool things to do: Devon House, Hope Gardens, downtown, Port Royal, or head up into the Blue Mountains. We found the busses and route taxis to be an easy and inexpensive way around the city. We anchored near the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club (usually full) for about a week and we and the boat were completely safe. It’s also close to the beautiful cays just outside Kingston harbour such as Lime Cay and Maiden Cay.

Lush Saint Thomas Parish

DON’T worry about provisioning, fuel, and water. The food available in Jamaica is up there with some of the best in the Caribbean. Of course, not everything is available all the time, but most supermarkets stock all of the basics, plus a wide selection of products imported from the UK (Cadburys!), and some of the best selection of vegetarian food targeted at the rasta population. Fuel can be purchased at the dock in Kingston and other marinas or jerry canned from gas stations anywhere in the country. Water is available almost everywhere and according to one marine policeman, Jamaica is the only Caribbean country where cruise ships will fill their tanks.

DO be patient with hustlers. Every town in Jamaica has them. These are the people selling weed, massages, hair braiding, tours, cuban cigars, sex, hats, coconut water, sunglasses, or just to draw you in by asking where you’re from or giving a fist bump. Jamaicans believe that every person deserves respect so it is considered rude to ignore or walk away abruptly. Be ready to say “no thank you” a lot or simply “I don’t need anything today”. We found the most hustlers in Ocho Rios and the fewest in places with fewer tourists like Kingston.

Banana Trees

DO visit the south coast. This is incredible cruising. Clear blue water and dozens of calm anchorages all to yourself. Our favourites were the Portland Cays, Whitehouse, and the Cays near Port Royal.

DON’T worry about red tape. Jamaica is a very formal country in terms of clearance procedures. For instance you absolutely cannot leave the boat until you have been inspected by the Quarantine officer and you have lowered your yellow flag. When we arrived we also needed to have a stack of forms completed by Customs as well as Immigration. But once this was complete we were issued a cruising permit and three month visa and didn’t need to meet with any more officials until we left. The marine police occasionally paid us a visit to check paperwork but were always extremely friendly and courteous.

Ever-Present Jamaican Goat

DO get off the boat and take inland tours. Tour a coffee plantation in the Blue Mountains. Blue Mountain coffee is excellent and when you go to the source you can easily find 100% Blue Mountain Coffee as opposed to the blends you get in the supermarket. Tour the Appleton rum distillery with Rasta George from Black River or go to YS Falls or Dunn’s falls. Tours can sometimes be pricey when you factor in transportation, guide, and a meal, but prices are usually negotiable.

A Rare Cloudy Day

*** Bonus for Non-Cruisers ***

There is certainly a time and a place for all inclusives. Several of the hotel guests we spoke to were looking for something different for their next holiday. If you’re looking for something more unique, consider either staying somewhere off-resort (for example, google Treasure Beach or independent hotels in Negril) or it is now possible to circumnavigate the island by land using the very comfortable Knutsford Express bus service or route taxis.  Budget a couple weeks for this but be prepared to abandon your plans when you find a place you love.

Jamaica is an island unlike any other in the Caribbean and you’d probably be hardpressed to find anywhere like it in the world.